Chinatown and Callowhill Neighborhood Guide

The adjacent Philadelphia neighborhoods of Chinatown and Callowhill reveal sides of the city’s diverse past and future. Historic Chinatown, heralded by the grand Friendship Arch at 10th and Arch Streets, stretches from Arch Street to the vicinity of Vine Street and between 9th and 12th streets. North of Chinatown is Callowhill, between 8th and Broad Streets, Spring Garden and Vine streets. Bordering neighborhoods include Spring Garden and Fairmount to the north, Market East to the south, North Broad Street to the west and Northern Liberties to the north and east.

CHINATOWN:

Cantonese immigrants first settled in Chinatown in the mid-19th century. Today, the neighborhood is packed end-to-end with restaurants, stores and schools that represent Hong Kong, Cantonese, Sichuan and Taiwanese cultures, with a sprinkling of Korean, Thai, Malaysian, Burmese, Vietnamese and Japanese- rolled ice cream thrown in for good measure.

Restaurants:

• Bai Wei – Traditional cooking of China’s Hunan province is the focus at Bai Wei, but the restaurant, formerly named Sakura, also tosses dim sum favorites and some fiery Sichuan dishes into the mix. Cash or Venmo only. 1038 Race Street, (215) 873-8338, baiwei.restaurant
• Banana Leaf – Malaysian cuisine comes with Thai, Indonesian and Indian influences, and deep-flavored specialties here include roti canai, curried chicken over coconut rice, mango tofu and Chow Kueh Teow noodle. 1009 Arch Street, (215) 592-8288, bananaleafphilly.com
• Bonchon – Korean fried chicken lovers find plenty of crunch and spice at this franchise of an international chain. Open until 2 a.m., the kitchen serves wings and drums with a variety of sauces, plus rice cake in chili sauce, japchae, bulgogi — and a nice selection of soju cocktails. 1020 Cherry Street, (267) 639-6686, bonchon.com
• Bubblefish Bubble Tea & Sushi – This hopping spot stays open late for light fare, including Japanese cuisine such as poké bowls, sushi, onigiri and tonkatsu don, along with bubble tea from a long list of flavor options. 909 Arch Street, (267) 930-7634, bubblefishphilly.com
• Chinatown Square – In this ambitious day-to-night operation, multiple vendors represent cuisine from all over the globe, from sushi, Korean BBQ and Southeast Asian curries to halal street food and gourmet burgers. But this food hall features more than just food: The hall also offers an expansive lounge and multiple karaoke rooms. 1016-18 Race Street, (215) 925-1111, chinatownsq.com
• David’s Mai Lai Wah – Up-late studiers, industry folks and other night owls hankering for satisfying Chinese eats come here after midnight for salt-and-pepper squid, dumplings in ginger-scallion sauce and beef with pickled mustard greens. 1001 Race Street, (215) 627-2610, davidsmailaiwah.com
• Dim Sum Garden – This long-running Race Street favorite offers an abundant selection of classic dim sum bites. The low-cost eats here include their famous pork soup dumplings, pan-fried dumplings and red bean cakes. A back room is available for large groups. 1020 Race Street, (215) 873-0258, dimsumgardenphilly.com
• E Mei – Home to some of the most authentic Sichuan cooking in the city, E Mei delivers country-style chicken with pickled pepper, garlic eggplant, shredded potato, fish filet in hot and spicy sauce and, for the spice-averse, snow pea leaves—all in its redesigned dining room. 915 Arch Street, (215) 627-2500, emeiphilly.com
• M Kee – This diminutive eatery lures in passersby with its lacquered ducks hanging in the window. The temptation continues with traditional Chinese barbecue spareribs and roast pork, served over noodles, congee and rice. 1002 Race Street, (215) 238-8883
• Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House – Lunchtime visitors pack into this no-frills spot, where the star feature is made-from-scratch noodles, hand-drawn or shaved, swirled in rich broth, tossed with peanut sauce or stir-fried. 1022 Race Street, (215) 923-1550, nanzhounoodlehouse.com
• Nine Ting – This contemporary eatery’s black lacquered booths beckon lovers of hot pot and Korean barbecue, especially on cold days. Either way, it’s prepared right at the table and served all-you-can-eat style for a very good value. 926 Race Street, (215) 238-9996
• Nom Wah Tea Parlor – The stylish sibling eatery to a big name in New York dim sum, Nom Wah specializes in shareable Chinese small plates, both classic and contemporary. Eaters can pair chrysanthemum or pu-er tea with delicacies such as turnip cake, soup dumplings and fried crab claws stuffed with shrimp. 218 N. 13th Street, (267) 519-2889, nomwah.com
• Oishii Poké – Hawaiian raw fish salad stars at this quick-service stop on Arch Street. Customers choose from signature dishes or a build-their-own poké bowl, sushi burrito or sashimi salad before selecting ingredients. 938 Arch Street, first floor rear, (267) 909-8358, oishipoke.com
• Rangoon – The city’s premier Burmese restaurant has successfully hooked Philadelphians on Thousand Layer Bread, fresh green tea salad, chickpea tofu — appetizers are standouts — with plenty of vegetarian options. 112 N. 9th Street, (215) 829-8939, rangoonphilly.com
• Red Kings 2 – Late-night karaoke (until nearly 3 a.m. on weekends and 2 a.m. during the week) and the irresistible lure of Sichuan peppercorns make this restaurant a major draw. Loyal diners insist that the Dan Dan noodles, cumin lamb and spicy boiled fish are the best in town. 1006 Race Street, (215) 238-1392, redkings2restaurant.com
• Sang Kee Peking Duck House – The flagship of a local empire, Sang Kee built its name on noodle soups, garlicky greens and, of course, roast duck. Patrons eagerly sample the Hong Kong fare on two floors of the restaurant. 238 N. 9th Street, (215) 925-7532, sangkeechinatown.com
• Spice C – Through the safety of a glass window, this Chinese noodle house lets patrons watch chefs skillfully turn fresh dough into hand-pulled and hand-shaved noodles, flinging their handiwork into the air, stretching and separating the dough for Spice C’s soups and stir-fries. Also for sale here: T-shirts that declare, “Love is … getting fat together! So, let’s eat more!” 131 N. 10th Street, (215) 923-2222, spicenoodle.com
• Tai Lake – The tanks of fish and frogs up front are a good indicator of the freshness of ingredients at this venerated seafoodery. Diners choose from authentic delicacies such as crabmeat and asparagus soup, chili-baked shrimp and sautéed conch. 134 N. 10th Street, (215) 922-0698, tailakeseafoodrest.com
• Tasty Place – Hungry neighborhood dwellers head underground to the Chinatown Mall for a true taste of Hong Kong. For two decades, Chef Simon Sei has satisfied their cravings for salt-baked wings and squid, roast pork ho fun, homey soups and spare ribs. 143 N. 11th Street, (215) 592-8990
• Terakawa Ramen – Japanese noodle bowls topped with roast pork, soft-boiled egg or soy-flavored chicken are the main attractions at this sleek fast-service spot. Patrons can sample platters with homemade curry, as well as fluffy or crispy buns filled with slowly braised pork, lettuce, tomato and spicy mayonnaise. 204 N. 9th Street, (267) 687-1355, terakawaramenphilly.com
• Tom’s Dim Sum – Its humble setting in an underpass only adds to the charm of this quick-eat spot, owned by soup dumpling master Tom Guo. Diners can mix and match steamed buns, dumplings and entrees over rice and still spend less than $20. 59 N. 11th Street, (215) 923-8880, tomdimssum.com
• TT Skewer ­– With about a half dozen seats, this tiny, couple-run, evening-only spot puts a lot of love into its Northern China-style (charcoal-roasted) meat and mantou (steamed bun) skewers and hot pots. 56 N. 9th Street, (215) 460-6617
• Vietnam Restaurant – The food at this handsome spot is impossibly quick, surprisingly inexpensive and deliciously authentic—and has been so since the early 1980s. Think crepes, broken rice platters and steaming bowls of pho. 221 N. 11th Street, (215) 592-1163, eatatvietnam.com
• Xi’an Sizzling Woks – Celebrating the bold cuisine of northwestern Xi’an, this restaurant offers unconventional specialties like liang pi (cold skin) noodles, group-friendly spicy chicken and noodles (thick noodles, bone-in chicken and potato in slightly spicy curry sauce), plus dumplings in spicy and sour soup and fiery hot pots. 902 Arch Street, (215) 925-1688, xiansizzingwoksphilly.com

Quick Bites & Treats:

• Bread Top House – All-day corner cafe offers delicious bargains in freshly baked coconut buns, fruit smoothies and milk teas, many for around $1. 1041 Race Street, (215) 925-3802
• Heung Fa Chun Sweet House – Quick, light meals are the specialty at this unassuming snack stop. Favorites include sweet or savory dou hua (tofu custard), sticky rice with Chinese sausage and fried sesame balls. 112 N. 10th Street, (215) 238-8968
• Mango Mango – Black sesame paste soup, mango sundae and durian mille crepe are among the authentically Hong Kong-style desserts at this modern cafe. 1013 Cherry Street, (215) 922-2233, mangomangodessert.com
• Mayflower Bakery and Café – This mainstay for cheap meals welcomes guests for breakfast or lunch. Behind the glass displays sit crispy, oven-fresh delicacies, like taro and red-bean buns, coconut bread, egg tarts and even hot-dog buns. 1008 Race Street, (215) 629-5668
• Mr. Wish – For fruity tea and all-things creamy and sippable, this cheery drink shop delivers. Later-than-average hours make it a great spot for a midnight snack. 216 N. 10th Street, (267) 457-2650, mrwishusa.com
• QT Vietnamese Sandwich – When the banh mi craving hits, this little luncheonette delivers with hoagies — the house special includes barbecue pork and Vietnamese ham — and lemongrass tofu, all layered with cilantro, fresh cucumbers, pickled carrots, mayo and fresh jalapeños. 48 N. 10th Street, (267) 639-4520, qtvietnamesesandwich.com
• Ray’s Café & Teahouse – Known for its siphoned specialty hot coffees and 12-hour drip cold-brew, Ray’s draws caffeine-fix connoisseurs to its friendly, old-school space. There’s also a full menu of imported Taiwanese teas, smoothies, desserts with coffee jelly made from the shop’s own blend, along with beef noodle soup and carefully homemade dumplings. 141 N. 9th Street, (215) 922-5122, rayscafe.com
• Tea Dó – This modern teahouse serves creative drinks and snacks all day long. A full selection of teas—with or without bubbles—accompanies eats like gyoza, curry fish balls and assorted 132 N. 10th Street, (215) 925-8889, tea-do.com
• Tsocaa & BBQ Chicken – Korean-fried chicken, including excellent honey garlic wings and “cheese teas,” drinks with cream cheese-like toppings, are the specialties of the house. But not barbecue: The “bbq” in the name stands for “best of the best quality.” 938 Race Street, (267) 519-8303
• ViVi Bubble Tea – This cheerful teahouse offers delicious tapioca drinks, amazing Earl Grey floats and a photogenic blue, purple and orange “Blue Galaxy” beverage, but the reason to dine-in is the addictive, inexpensive Taiwanese popcorn chicken, which comes with a variety of toppings, including popular plum. 145 N. 10th Street, (267) 318-7384, vivibubbletea.com
• Yummy Yummy – For the cost- and taste-conscious, the teas, sticky rice, pork- and mushroom-filled rice rolls and made-to-order bubble waffles at this Friendship Gate-side spot are must-orders. 52 N. 10th Street, (215) 625-9188

Bars & Nightlife:

• Bar.Ly – This modern bar specializes in craft cocktails, beer (60 on tap), sports-viewing and a global pub-grub menu with tater tots, burgers, kimchi pizza and Vietnamese pork chops. 101 N. 11th Street, (215) 922-2688, bar-ly.com
• Hi Kori – This L-shaped bar in Chinatown Square serves original tea-infused cocktails and an excellent selection of Japanese whiskey. A smattering of booze-friendly street food bites completes the experience. 1016-18 Race Street, (267) 758-6118, facebook.com/hikori.phila
• Hop Sing Laundromat – Chinatown’s surreptitious speakeasy, concealed behind an unmarked Race Street gate, hand-cracks ice and squeezes fruit juice to order for its exquisite cocktails. Proprietor Lê has strict rules for entry: Allowed in are those who comply with the dress code and turn off their cell phones. 1029 Race Street, hopsinglaundromat.com
• NOTO – With 22 VIP bottle-service tables, three bars and the capacity to hold up to 980 club-goers, Philly’s largest nightclub delivers. The upscale venue combines superior service with international DJs. 1209 Vine Street, (215) 607-6686, notoftheordinary.com
• Yakitori Boy – At this hotspot, the night can start with yakitori, sushi or sake bombs — but it always ends with singing. Those who prefer more intimacy can present their musical stylings to friends in private karaoke rooms or, if booked in advance, a private lounge. 211 N. 11th Street, (215) 923-8088, yakitoriboy.com

Shopping:

• Ga-In BeautyZone – Korean beauty experts deliver the goods at this well-stocked cosmetic store. In addition to makeup, masks and skin care products, Ga-In offers eyelash extensions and micro-blading. 127 N. 11th Street, (267) 210-0314
• Invisible Fake – This sleek boutique accommodates shoppers with a flair for high-style streetwear with its smartly curated seasonal selection. The selection includes jerseys, hats and hoodies from Japanese labels such as Undercover, SOPHNET, Comme des Garçons and more. 118 N. 9th Street, (267) 930-8546, facebook.com/invisiblefake
• Tuck Hing – The stock varies from week to week at Chinatown’s longest-running grocer. But shoppers can always count on superb Chinese sausage, dried oysters and other staples of the Asian kitchen. 218 N. 10th Street, (215) 627-2079

Arts & Culture:

• Asian Arts Initiative – This community-based arts center explores the diverse experiences of Asian Americans, addresses social context and impacts the community in a positive way. The organization offers a full calendar of events, including exhibitions, public performances, an out-of-school youth program and more. 1219 Vine Street, (215) 557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org
• Chinese Zodiac Walk – The 95 bronze medallions embedded in the neighborhood’s sidewalks represent the Chinese calendar year. Look closely for all 12 animals, designed in a paper-cut style by Andrews/LeFevre Studios and the 10-foot medallion displaying all of the zodiac animals.
• Friendship Gate – Tianjin tiles decorate the gilt-painted circa 1984 gate, an entryway that symbolizes the connection between sister cities Philadelphia and Tianjin. 10th & Arch Streets
• Philly Food Adventures – Food writer and blogger Jamie Shanker welcomes groups of four to 25 for her two-hour jaunt around the neighborhood. Meeting under the neighborhood’s iconic arch, she offers insights into Asian cultures before taking eaters to multiple destinations for dumplings, noodles and under-the-radar street fare. phillyfoodadventures.com

CALLOWHILL:

Developers have referred to nearby Callowhill as the “Loft District,” but locals old enough to remember the urbanscape that inspired 1977 cult film Eraserhead (by former resident David Lynch), can remember the district as “The Eraser ’Hood.” In truth, Callowhill is named after Hannah Callowhill Penn,

William Penn’s better half, and, today, it’s transforming from industrial to stylishly gritty. Callowhill has a stock of large, urban buildings, remnants of cobblestone streets, edgy rock clubs, emerging galleries and hidden cultural gems. Bisecting Callowhill are the elevated tracks of the dormant Reading Railroad, including the developing Rail Park, a hub of relaxation and creative activity.

Food & Drink:

• Café Lift – One of the earliest eateries to capitalize on Callowhill’s boom, Café Lift serves brunch and lunch in an airy, post-industrial space. The menu includes panini, frittatas and crespelle, including the irresistible Nutty Monkey with bananas and Nutella. 428 N. 13th Street, (215) 922-3031, cafelift.com 
• El Purepecha – This corner taco-tostada-burrito-nacho spot is authentic yet familiar, cozy but not borderline cramped, spicy and colorful—just right for an affordable, yummy, anytime-of-day meal. It’s also a bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB) spot. 469 N. 10th Street, (215) 765-2369
• Elixr Roastery and Café – This sprawling, sunny cafe is known for its five-cup omakase coffee flights hand-picked by its experts. Elixr roasts its beans onsite, and guests can get a peek at the process behind large windows. 315 N. 12th Street, elixrcoffee.com
• Love City Brewing Co. – One of Philly’s newer breweries invites drinkers to sample its wares in a rehabbed industrial space that once manufactured parts for the trains of the Reading Railroad. The tasting room also hosts puppy yoga, DJ quizzo and food trucks. 1023 Hamilton Street, (215) 398-1900, lovecitybrewing.com
• Parada Maimon – Rice and beans accompany most orders at this authentically Dominican eatery. Wood paneling and checkered-clothed tables also make this a great setting for pork mofongo, fried plantains, stewed chicken, ropa vieja and patties. 345 N. 12th Street, (215) 925-2000, paradamaimon.net
• Prohibition Taproom – The owners of Café Lift branch out to the gastropub scene with a rehabbed taproom with filament bulb lighting fixtures and a killer jukebox. The menu includes a solid tap list of domestic microbrews and a rotating bottle selection, along with eats from their seasonal menu. 501 N. 13th Street, (215) 238-1818, theprohibitiontaproom.com
• Restaurant Catracho – Diners get their handmade pupusa (stuffed flatbread) and potato cakes at this little Honduran joint or up their taco game with a Honduran Baleada (thick flour tortilla filled with mashed fried red beans). Regulars know to call ahead to cut down on the wait time for a table; others just call in takeout orders. 1011 Spring Garden Street, (267) 534-3758
• Roy-Pitz Barrel House – Born in Chambersburg, Pennsylvania, this 130-seat brewpub stands atop old truck docks and serves 15 house and local drafts (especially sour, barrel-aged, funky brews), regional craft wines and spirits and casual, clever lunch, dinner and weekend brunches. The food here starts basic — wings, fries — and gets funky — fried persimmons, chicken schnitzel sandwiches, root vegetable gratins, pork belly BLTs. 990 Spring Garden Street,
  (215) 995-6792, roypitzbarrelhouse.com
• Sazon – Venezuelan cuisine comes alive at this diner-feeling BYOB. Hearty platters of steak, rice and beans; grilled tofu; and cheese-stuffed arepas draw dedicated fans, including gluten-free eaters and vegetarians. Meals end with serious, house-made chocolate, including that of the drinking variety. 941 Spring Garden Street, (215) 763-2500, sazonphilly.com
• Win Win Coffee Bar – This all-day cafe offers patrons local art, Machine Shop pastries, seasonal salads and fried chicken sandwiches to go with coffee or cocktails (or both). Dance parties, DJs and karaoke draw late-night crowds. 931 Spring Garden Street, winwincoffeebar.com

Culture, Shops & Galleries:

• Asian Arts Initiative – This community‐based arts center engages people to create art that explores the diverse experiences of Asian-Americans, addresses social context and impacts the community in a positive way. The organization offers a full calendar of events, including exhibitions, public performances, an out-of-school youth program and more. 1219 Vine Street, (215) 557-0455, asianartsinitiative.org
• Grizzly Grizzly – Risk-taking artists run and curate an engaging series of exhibitions and alternative events in this small exhibition space. 319 N. 11th Street, 2nd floor, grizzlygrizzly.com
• Khmer Art Gallery – Eminent gallery for Cambodian art displays and sells contemporary art that draws from traditional practices. The collection of painting, sculpture, textiles, pottery, traditional musical instruments and more is open by appointment only, with free educational tours for individuals and groups. 319 N. 11th Street, (215) 922-5600, khmerartgallery.com
• Marginal Utility – Showcasing local and international emerging and established artists, this next-door neighbor of Vox Populi (below) offers similarly fresh, contemporary works on canvas, paper and new media. 319 N. 11th Street, 2nd floor, marginalutility.org
• PhilaMOCA (Philadelphia Mausoleum of Contemporary Art) – Callowhill’s circa 1865 Finney & Son building, a former mausoleum showroom, served as headquarters for Diplo’s Mad Decent label in the mid-2000s. More recently, it’s hosted some of the most buzzed-about indie acts, plus film screenings, live comedy and art shows. (The city’s department of Licenses and Inspections closed the venue in September 2019, but it’s on track to reopen in early 2020.) 531 N. 12th Street, (215) 519-9651, philamoca.org
• Vox Populi – Founded in 1988, this collectively run gallery is devoted to experimental and under-represented contemporary art, with a rotating membership of artists of various genres. The space hosts monthly exhibitions, gallery talks, performances, lectures and other programming. 319 N. 11th Street, 3rd floor, (215) 238-1236, voxpopuligallery.org

Nightclubs & Entertainment:

• The Rail Park – Phase one of the revitalization of three miles of unused, elevated rail lines has transformed the previously abandoned stretch of space into a quarter-mile public greenway with swinging benches, pathways and Instagram-worthy city views. In warmer months, the Boxcar Beer Garden brings craft beer, wine, BBQ and big crowds. 1300 Noble Street, therailpark.org
• The Trestle Inn – This under-a-trestle spot for whiskey and go-go presents 1960s and ’70s-inspired music, entertainment and drink. In-house go-go dancers perform on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights; every night, the beverage list features 18 craft cocktails — they’re known for their whiskey sour — more than 70 domestic and international whiskies and 13 craft beers on tap. 339 N. 11th Street, (267) 239-0290, thetrestleinn.com
• Underground Arts – This multi-use performance venue caters to an artistic and creative crowd. The genres of live music run the spectrum, which is one of Underground Arts’ greatest assets. 1200 Callowhill Street, (215) 627-1332, undergroundarts.org
• Union Transfer – Local and touring indie, punk, hardcore and hip-hop acts take to the acoustically awesome stage at this ultra-spacious venue for 500-1,200 people. Concerts finish with a post-show happy hour. 1026 Spring Garden Street, (215) 232-2100, utphilly.com

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